April Classics 2011: Non-Race Excursions

The Monday after Flanders, Chuck, Jeff, and I awoke with plans to drive south to Ieper, Belgium (aka Ypres in French and English) before heading north to Amsterdam. Upon leaving the our hotel in Brugge, we saw a big Radioshack team bus parked in the hotel across the street. Of course, we were obligated to stop in and invite ourselves (ie, pay 15 EUR) to the small buffet breakfast in order to be a fly on the wall, as a few members of the team ate and chatted about yesterday's race in a small private room next to us. What did we learn/hear? Well, the consensus was that having a relative no-name win the Flanders was good for the fans and the race. As well, being a profi at that level means that you get a small specially prepared sack fully filled with a clean team kit, water bottles, various gels, and sundry items for your morning training ride. After breakfast, we spent the remaining morning and early afternoon in Ieper (city center shown above). A remarkable little town that is infamously known for the multiple gas attacks and being in the crosshairs of some long and intense trench warfare during WWI. It was literally destroyed except for a few buildings. However, it was rebuilt to look much like it had prior to the war. During the afternoon, we drove a couple hours north into the Netherlands to spend a quick night in Amsterdam.

This picture was taken in Ieper. I assume this is a promo for a local Kermisse that recently had taken place. Everywhere in Belgium, signs (literally and figuratively) of cycling are omnipresent.

A typical subway station in Amsterdam. You have never seen cycling-centric cities until you have been to the Netherlands. Based on my unscientific observation in Amsterdam, bicycles appeared to outnumber cars by a high multiple.

On Tuesday, we decided to stop at Waterloo on our drive back to Köln. We took an interesting guided tour of the battlefield. While hindsight is 20-20, Napoleon's attack did not seem to make a lot of sense based on his very unfavorable battlefield position relative to Wellington's. Nonetheless, there were valid reasons from his perspective to engage, despite his troop's disadavantage position (such as starting at the bottom a big open hill and trying to charge up this hill against well established opposing troops). Well, the bad weather (heavy rains and soft ground) and the unanticipated flanking enemy Prussian troops being led by Blücher resulted in one of the greatest defeats in European history.

Today this famous battlefield is literally just a field, as it grows crops and is actively farmed by the locals.

Mid-week was spent back in Köln. Here you see Chuck "Zu gewinnen in Winnen", with Jeff also successfully ascending a somewhat steep climb into this little village. When I wasn't showing them some of my favorite local riding routes, we spent our time hanging out in the city, taking in the sites, and sampling Kölsch whenever possible.

On Friday, we headed to Paris for a couple of days of touring prior to Sunday's big race.

Bis später

2011 Ronde Van Vlaanderen

My favorite month of the year had finally arrived, along with a sleep deprived Chuck and Jeff at the Düsseldorf airport on the Friday before Flanders. After allowing them to take a short nap that early afternoon, we christened the cycling-filled week by riding my daily morning pre-ride route late that afternoon – a perfect antidote to their jetlag.

In keeping to my normal routine and allowing for a timely departure to Brugge later that morning, we all awoke at 4:30am on Saturday and set out for a 3 hour ride shortly after 5:00am. The ride can be summarized as follows. After 45 minutes into the ride as we were ascending a long but easy grade climb around the Köln-Bonn airport, I overheard Chuck mention to Jeff that “the best way to cyclotour Europe is in the dark.” Now that comment was not a dig at the route/surrounding area (as it was quite nice actually), but it was instead directed at their local ride leader. This became a recurring theme throughout the week and our subsequent rides, as roughly half of the local riding scenery I wanted to show my guests, they actually couldn’t see. :-)

Shortly after the sunrise, we finished our ride, took the bus to the Köln Hbf, picked up a rental car, and then headed west to Brugge. An enjoyable and uneventful trip until we made our first fuel and food stop on the expressway near Ghent. As is typical in Europe, one must pay to potty. When Jeff and I entered the WC, the potty patrol person was absent, but I obediently put some coins into the unattended dish anyway (living in Germany has conditioned me to follow rules). A minute or two later when our business was finished, Jeff somehow escaped unscathed, as he exited. I, on the other hand, was greeted by the missing attendant who was a young guy with a bullying sarcastic tone to him. I was accused of PWP (insert “P…ing” word of your choice followed by “W”ithout “P”aying). After a short discussion, I was finally allowed to leave, even though I sensed that he did not believe my insistence that I had voluntarily prepaid. Chuck experienced this same hospitality a few minutes later when the thug potty attendant body-checked him and physically tried to block him from leaving until he paid. Somehow he too managed escape. Despite the hitherto hospitality, we decided to stay at this fine establishment to eat given our nagging hunger. But…the fun wasn’t over. The cashier short-changed me €15 after paying for my €8 Panini and soda with a €50, but only after double-billing Chuck for his meal, which he soon realized after reviewing his receipt.

Shortly after that warm welcome to Flanders, we checked-in at our hotel and then headed to the Grote Markt in Brugge to walk the streets in search of chocolate, lace, Profi cyclists, and Trappist bier. We succeeded in finding most of these. In terms of Profi related sightings, we saw JV (many moons away from his Mont Venteux victory climbing weight) and Van Petegem from Garmin and Dirk Demol from Radio Shack heading to pre-race event that evening.

However, the highlight of the day occurred when we were walking the streets after dinner. With a Trappist bier or two under our belts, the local surroundings and atmosphere was quite enjoyable. It then reached a crescendo when we heard a guy with a familiar South African accent shout “Bon Giorno” to another guy who obviously spoke English with an Italian accent. Jeff, Chuck and I immediately look at each other and said “Look, it’s Phil and Paul!“ So we stood there, let Phil and Paul finish their conversation (with who turned out to be the main cycling commentator for RAI), then went up to them and requested a photo. They graciously said "sure" and Paul took a picture of the three of us with Phil. We then asked Phil to take a group pic with Paul, but Phil struggled mightily with Chuck’s iPhone and was never actually able to snap the photo. Paul thought this was quite funny and teased Phil for being in the dark ages in terms of his knowledge of modern technology. Paul then proceeded to take out his iPhone to show me his iPhone to demonstrate his skills. We then talked with them for another few minutes and they were quite friendly and engaging. Paul took notice of the Chuck’s sweatshirt, which featured the Lion of Flanders, and proceeded to quiz him on his ability to properly say it in Flemish. We then talked a lot about the next day’s race – thunder storms were predicted, it would probably be a battle between Cancellara and Gilbert and not Boonen (not surprisingly, Nuyens name was never mentioned), and both admitted their predictions had been lacking as of late, especially with the surprise win by Tony Martin a few weeks prior at Paris-Nice. So there we were, on Flander’s eve talking racing with Phil and Paul just a few blocks away from the start of race. Not a bad way to spend an evening!

On Sunday, we awoke early and headed to the start. Our race plan was to mimic what I had done prior year and watch the start, head to a spot near Oudenaarde in the middle of the race, then finish at the Kapplemuur. So after breakfast, we positioned ourselves about 50 feet from the start, just along the inside barricades where the riders would have to ride next to us to line up to start. We had a great view, took some nice pics, and enjoyed being a “a fly on the barricade”, as we tried to eavesdrop on various rider conversations whenever possible. After a successful start, we then had to pull an audible as we neared Oudenaarde, since the race was too near and the traffic was almost at a standstill. I realized what had happened - the course had changed this year, as it had not taken them west out of Brugge to the sea and then down to the hills in the heart of Flanders. This year the route pretty much went straight to south out of Brugge, and therefore the course was more concentrated and congested with fans than had been in the prior year. We made a quick decision to abort and then headed to the town of Geraardsbergen, home of the most famous Spring Classic climb, the Kappelmuur. We arrived in plenty of time to stop in a little pub on the course near the base of the climb. We had a Belgium bier or two while we watched the race on TV as it approached town. As it got closer, we headed to our spot near the top to watch it arrive in person.

Here are some scenes from our festivities that weekend.

Luckily, Paul knew how to work an iPhone camera.

Big George relaxing at the start.

I called him the epitomy of Belgie toughness last year, and I will say it again this year. Just a few days after a hard crash that put him in the hospital with a concussion and some lost teeth, Hoste lines up bandaged for the start. Well, why wouldn't he?

Yes, we were that close. I had to exercise self-restraint from taking that race card as a souvenir.

There are some real Boonen "fan"atics. This picture says it all.

Gilbert lines up.

We think we spotted Floyd in the crowd. Poor guy has really aged these past few years. :-)

Thor SMASH, Sparticus, and Tommy Voeckler depart.

We have arrived...the base of the Kaapelmuur. Where would you rather be on the first Sunday of April?



Polytheism abound this Sunday. The locals honor the past and present cycling gods everywhere you turn. The above two pics show the caricatures that were everywhere. If you double-click the photo you will see Waylendt, Cancellera, Pettachi, F. Schleck, and others.

Chuck ascends the Kappelmuur quite happily. One comment on the Hincapie US Championship jersey - Chuck got comments in English everwhere he went - "Hey....yuuu uh Heeencaapee fan?" Belgies love Hincapie and were always eager to tell us how much they like him and to give us race updates as to how he was doing." For 3 Americans in Belgium, this was very cool.



Yours truly with Chuck and Jeff on the Muur. After years of watching this race on TV together and talking about doing this trip, we finally did it...here we are. :-)

Game on! The boys finally arrive. Cancellera leads the charge with Chavenal, Gilbert and the rest in tow as they fly up this long, steep, cobbled climb at INSANE speeds.

After the groups who were still racing went by, we hurriedly descended the Muur to watch the finish on the big screen. Here is how we watched Nuyens outfox them all.



The party is over. Remnants of the battle on the Muur.

Bis später

LBL 2011

The Classics finale for me. After Flanders, Roubaix, and Amstel, I did my best to make the most out of this weekend. Saturday morning, I got up early and drove to Remouchamps (home of Gilbert) to ride part of the LBL course. Goal was to ride a few Cotes and Cols, then check-in at the hotel in Liege, then attend the team presentations in Liege that afternoon, and then get up early on Sunday to chase the race.


Le Redoute about 30 hours prior to when the race would go by. Campers already lined up and waiting for the next day's excitement.


Well, look who is staying at my hotel. As I am checking in, Vino and Di Gregorio walk by me in full kit just returning from a training ride.


As I get off the elevator on the 4th floor, I quickly realize I am sharing the floor with the Katusha team. No real surprises, as to which rooms the riders and support staff were staying in. On the wall and many of the room doors, this paper was posted. Double-click the photo and you can easily see who was staying where.


Here is the Katusha team scale in the hallway just a couple of doors down from me. For any rider who registers in the reddish-pink zone, he gets a one-way ticket to Siberia.


After checking-in at the hotel, I walked down the street to watch the official team presentations. Here is Gilbert and the Omega Pharm-Lotto team. He is all smiles after dominating Amstel and FW during the past week.


Here is DiLuca. I will see him again off-and-on back at the hotel. BTW...the night before a big race, Killer likes to knock back a Jupiler bier and eat bar snacks while studying the race maps and surfing the net on his blackberry.


Joaquim Rodriguez...he has had the best view of Gilbert's back side this past week. Later in the day, I would see him back at the hotel being interviewed by some reporting crew in English.


Chavenel...I really like this guy. Best French rider in quite a while (probably since L. Jalabert). Really talented rider who has the instincts, drive, and talent to win big races.


Sammy Sanchez just scored some Euskatel swag and is checking it out.


Andy and Fränk Schleck cause excitement in the crowd.


Andy signs for the girl standing next to me.


Nick Nuyens, winner of Flanders. Earlier in the day while riding, I helped a guy from the Flemish region of Belgium fix his flat tire. We got to talking racing, etc. and he mentioned to me that most people in Belgium were not happy with Nuyens and the way he won Flanders a couple of weeks back. Said they were not pleased that he just sat in till the last minute then came out of nowhere to win. To me, my take on this is that the Belgie fans like their winners to be aggressive and dominating...ala Eddie Merckx...or, say, Philippe Gilbert.


So, Sunday morning I go down to the breakfast promptly at 7:00am when it opened. Katusha team staggers in roughly the same time and Astana a few minutes later. Both teams have their own tables and separated slightly from the main eating area, but were in full view of the rest of the room. We all shared the same coffee and juice machines and bread/cereal tables, so they are hardly secluded. Interesting scene with Katusha, as the riders seemed relaxed but the Soignieurs and assistants were quite tense. They kept putting a lot of pressure on the hotel breakfast staff to bring out these huge plates of plain pasta - in various shapes and varieties. Pretty funny to watch, as the staff was almost literally running every 5 minutes with these big plates of specially made pasta. As for Astana, defending LBL champ Vino was one of the very last to arrive...very relaxed and all smiles. Those smiles would end a few hours later when he flatted at a very critical juncture of the race. One of the most memorable moments of this breakfast was watching this young boy probably 10 or 11 walking into the breakfast room with his father. The kid was wearing a classic World's rainbow jersey and along with some Belgium cycling paraphanalia. When he walked into the room and saw the likes of Vino, Rogriguez, DiLuca, etc. I could see his eyes turn to saucers. Great scene!

I arrive at the start at Place Saint-Lambert in Liege and secure my spot as the riders line up. Here Anaud Gerard and Jeremy Roy share a laugh.


Tony Martin's family was standing right next to me. While you can't see her, he is holding the hand of whom I presumed to be his mother. Many Vielen Glücks were given to him by his family, as he lined up.



Souplesse! Pictures and words really can't describe it, but if you ever get a chance to see a Profi race of this caliber in person you will know exactly what I mean.


Gilbert getting prepared to win the race he most covets.


Vandevelde chatting with the newcomer from Texas, Caleb Fairly.


After the start, I then drove 45 minutes south to the small town of Houffailize to watch the climb at the base of Cote de Saint-Roch. I love scenes like this one - a Belgium flag hangs out one window and a little Wallonne flag sits in the other. This fan has the best seat in the house, and I assume she has been watching from this same spot for many many years.


Jensy leads the chasing peloton at the base of Cote de Saint-Roch.


Climb up the Saint-Roch. This is the scene of one of Graham Watson's most ubiquitous photos. This is my rendition of his famous photo.


Shouldn't every town playground have a vintage Panzer for the kids to play on? Belgium's neighbor gifted this to the town of Houffalize a few years back.


After Houffailize, I drove north to the town of Stavelot to watch the race at the Cote de Stockeu.


At Stockeu, here is the Eddie Merckx monument.


At this point, there is still a breakaway, but the chasing group is gaining quickly. Here, Team Leopard-Trek is leading the chase. Rodriguez, Fränk Schleck, and Gilbert can be seen in the background.


After Stockeu, I drove to the finish in Ans and established my spot about 400m from the finish. Here is a scene about an hour before the Profis would arrive...a very junior race...kids in full team kits - both boys and girls - probably ages 8-12 go racing up the final climb to the finish. I get the sense that organized bike racing to kids this age in Belgium is akin to Little League baseball in the U.S.


Are we watching a future Gilbert?


King Philippe just seconds away from putting the hammer down. On paper, he would appear to be in a very unenviable tactical position by being outnumbered 2 to 1 by the Schleck Bros. However, races aren't won on paper, and he easily outsprinted both to the finish.

Bis später!