Die Abenteuer ist Vorbei!

It's now been over three months since the family and I packed our bags and returned home for good from Germany and I have finally found the time to finish this blog. "The adventure is over", as the title implies, and this will be the very last "Riding on the Rhein" posting.

The original intent of this blog was to keep friends and others periodically updated on my experiences in Germany and Europe. However, I soon grew lazy and let Ellen, through her Facebook account, be our primary communication channel to our friends and family in the U.S. This situation, coupled with the fact that the majority of my personal friends and acquaintences also have a shared interest in cycling, resulted in this blog being primarily a means to publish reports about the various professional races I was fortunate enough to attend. For the few of you who actually read any of these reports, my goal was to share with you my enthusiasm and passion for what I consider the most fascinating sport in the world. Despite my best attempts to do so, words and pictures really can't explain or describe the experience of being at a professional cycling race, especially one in Europe. While I did have hopes that some of you would actually follow this blog and enjoy reading my various postings, at the end of the day, I created this blog for myself. If nothing else, I am hopeful it will serve as short diary to which I can refer from time-to-time in an effort to rekindle my many fond memories of these past couple of years.

For this final posting, I would like to highlight some of my other, non-race spectating, cycling memories:

-> Early morning weekend rides heading east over the Rhein (see photo above) with downtown Köln on my left and the sun rising to my right.

-> Shedding any type of "training" plan and just riding for the experience of riding and sight-seeing.

-> Finding myself in myself in a fast, large group ride where half the riders aren't wearing helmets.

-> Tilff-Bastogne-Tilff, a Liege-Bastogne-Liege facsimile, fondo-esque ride of 7,000+ participants. Hearing almost no English or German for the entire 5+ hour ride, but instead Dutch, Flemmish, and French. Experiencing both utter fear and exhilaration while descending, shoulder-to-shoulder and 50 deep, down insanely technical and fast Ardennes hills and roads. I just kept asking myself "How did the Badger do this in the snow?"

Yours truly suffering at the top of another Ardennes Col.

Scene from Tilff-Bastogne-Tilff. Typical Belgie boy climbing a col his heroes just did in LBL just a month prior to this ride.

-> Taking fellow-riding visiting guests such as my father-in-law, Chuck, and Jeff on some of my favorite local riding routes.

-> My many rides with my daughters Cosette and Cara through the numerous paths and woods just behind our apartment. Especially, the many rides on the banks of the Rhein with Cosette to and from the Dom.

Taking a rest break with my riding partner at the Dom in Köln.

-> Riding with Cosette through all sorts of interesting scenes, such as the topless photo shoot in the field behind us and the Sunday morning rave parties in the tunnel under the Autobahn.

-> Riding with a friend from Belgium who informed me that he "quit" racing at age 14.

-> Riding L'Alpe d'Huez at dawn with Chuck and just a handful of other riders at that time of day. Halfway up my ascent, a lone Frenchman descends and sees the self-imposed suffering on my face, as I time-trial up the mountain. As he flys by, he smiles and shouts out an encouraging "Allez" to me. After he goes by, I immediately think to myself "This is cool sh%t!"

-> Die Radtouristikfahren (aka, the RTF). Danke Andreas W. for bringing these events to my attention. Basically, these are very popular, non-competitive rides which are sponsored and supported by local cycling clubs. During each Saturday and Sunday of the spring and summer months, there were usually multiple ones in the area from which to choose. Typically, these events offered routes with distances of 75, 110, 150, and 200+ kms. For newcomers to the area, this was a great way to learn local riding routes, see new parts of the country, and mingle with fellow riders.

-> Trying to make small talk in German with those at the the typical RTF food stops. On more than one occasion, they would ask me where I was from and assumed I was British. It was funny to see their demeanor warm up and the smiles surface when I would reply with "Nein, nein, ich bin Amerikaner". :-)

-> Not once being chased by a dog and only getting honked or yelled at by motorists less than a handful of times during my 2 years there.

-> Riding on very narrow streets, full of traffic, and having absolutely no worries about getting hit by cars or aggressive riders trying to run me off the road.

-> Drivers in cars almost always giving me the right-of-way and apoligizing to me during the few times they didn't let me have it.

-> Fellow riding partners Tom, Rüdiger, and Leslie. Good fortune was such that a colleague of mine in Pittsburgh moved to Germany and it turned our her husband Tom was also an avid cyclist. With Tom's arrival, I then had a fellow English speaking riding partner. Through Tom, I met Rüdiger and Leslie. Rüdiger proved to be great guide with his extensive knowledge of the local routes and riding scene. As well, his competitive spirit made our rides fun. Leslie, a fellow North American from Canada, served as an exemplary model to all of us cycling ex-pats, as he really knew how to get the most out of his time in Germany. I can't even begin to summarize all of his cycling adventures in Europe, especially since he does it so well himself through his own blog called "Travels with a Tin Donkey" at www.tindonkey.com. Highly entertaining and recommended reading IMHO. Additionally, you can check out some of Leslie's other writings on www.pezcyclingnews.com, where he does cycling book reviews. Throughout my time in DE, I had some really nice and memorable rides with these three. Thanks guys!

-> Bonn-Eupen-Bonn. My first and only "Radmarathon" at 225km roundtrip. Tom and Leslie talked me into riding this day long journey with them, and I am glad they did. We started in Bonn, then rode pretty much due west through the Eifel Forest to Eupen, Belgium, and then returned to Bonn. I'll never forget that long climb out of Eupen to the German border, as it had a road surface that would make PennDoT proud!




Again, thanks to all to all of you who took the time to follow this blog over the past couple of years.

Tschüs!

Le Tour '11 - Stage 20 - Grenoble ITT

After stage 19, the family and I took a long and circuitous drive (due to Tour road closures) to Grenoble and spent the night at the same hotel we had stayed in a year ago . Luckily, they didn't recognize me!(see last year's "European Hotels" blog posting)

As for the chickenscratch in this photo, it actually has some personal significance. The top represents my morning run route from the hotel to the start line of the day's stage. The bottom part represents the time splits for the day's stage, as I would not have access to the internet once we left the hotel and headed down to the race. Chuck and I referred to this little piece of paper often, as we took time splits on our phones and watches in an attempt to determine in real-time the placings of the top 10 guys that came past us.

As the family and I walked towards the finish, we went past the start and through the area in a park where the team buses were stationed and riders were warming up. Interesting scene, as the riders had to ride about 300-400m through park paths and sidewalks to get to the start. Often they would have to wiggle around and through the gauntlet of fans and spectators who were walking right beside them. Gilbert went by us almost unnoticed, as he wasn't wearing his Belgium stripes due it being a time trial. We almost literally rubbed shoulders with Thor, as he was hurrying to ride away from a group of fans chasing after him. In this pic, I didn't take it personally that this Rabobank rider didn't appreciate seeing a family of four clad in BMC/USA Championship jerseys (see his hand on left brake ;-)

We positioned ourselves a little past 1km from the finish. From this area, we could see the riders on the opposite side of the road as they headed out to the course. Later upon their return, they would come by us again near our side of the road. Here is Andy shortly after his start and trying to hang onto his newly acquired yellow jersey.

Berto digging deep!

Fränk Schleck solidifying his podium spot.

Andy Schleck returns. So close, but so far!

My vote for "pic of the day" taken by Chuck. Here is Cadel just a little over a 1km from taking the Yellow and winning this year's Tour. Chapeau Cadel!! Well done!!

Bis später!

Le Tour '11 - Stage 19 - Galibier Descent

After the previous day's Izoard stage, we drove back to our base camp in Vars, a small ski resort village at about 1,900m elevation. With no bikes in hand, I started the day with a morning run. My first ever Alpine run was cold (~40F) and slow. For me, riding in the high Alpes is infinitely more enjoyable than running in them. Nonetheless, it was quite memorable given the surrounding scenery. After our morning croissants and coffee, we gathered the troops and headed north to the Col du Lautaret, which is where the riders would be descending off of the Galibier and making a hard right on the highway that would eventually take them to Bourg d'Oisans and the final climb of day - L'Alpe d'Huez. With road closures starting the night before, getting anywhere near L'Alpe to watch the final ascent would be near impossible.

After driving down the mountain from Vars, we found ourselves in the valley going through Briançon and on the road used during the prior day's Stage 18 which led the riders to the Galibier finale. As I was driving on this road, the Walter Mitty in me surfaced again, as I kept imagining I was Andy Schleck, yesterday's stage winner, racing to stay ahead of the chasers. In another moment, I was Tommy Voeckler, with the weight of French pride on my shoulders, racing to keep the yellow. Cars coming around me were no longer "passing", they were "attacking"! I would quickly accelerate to get in their draft. Despite being in a car, I would lean into the turns, try to accelerate out of corners, and exceed local speed limits wherever possible, as I imaginary raced to the base of the Galibier. Oh what a fun and memorable drive!

We have arrived! Without a doubt, the most stunning scenery I have ever seen at a race. What TV can't convey is just how big and majestic the mountains are in this area!

The family gets ready for another day in the mountains cheering on Big George and Cadel.

Le Tour is like no other race. Hundreds upon hundreds of RVs/Campers literally line the mountain roads.

Here we go!! This is racing at its best, as cycling's ultimate prize is on the line at this very moment. Costa, Riblon, Contador, and A. Schleck are the first ones down the Galibier and within seconds will make a hard right that will put them en route to L'Alpe D'Huez. Notice Andy trying to refuel as he comes out of the corner. These guys were flying down this hill.

Sammy Sanchez chasing hard and demonstrating his renowned descending skills. His efforts and insane speeds will pay off, as he will wear the polka dot jersey at the end of this stage. If you look closely in the background above, you can see the little road where the riders came down and around the mountain. We could first see them as little specs up there and then a minute or so later they would be racing past us at lightning speeds.

Tommy V. being led by his boys...desperately trying to hang onto the maillot jaune. His train blasted by us just inches away from where we were standing. Needless to say, my hairs were standing on end at this moment.

Thor, Cav, and others...just trying to survive.

Bis später!

Le Tour '11 - Stage 18 - On the Col d'Izoard

Le Tour 2011. Plans were as follows...Chuck and co. would fly into France the second week, watch the race in the Pyrenees, and then follow it daily until the Alpine stages. The family and I, on the other hand, would get off to a later start, as the girls still had school during the second week of the Tour. Our plans were to travel south to Italy for a few days of touring and relaxing, then rendezvous with Chuck and co. in Vars, a small ski-town in the Alps. Therefore, my first stage was actually Stage 18 on the final week of the Tour.

The family and I (along with Chuck and co, not in the photo) were fully decked-out in our George Hincapie BMC U.S. Championship jerseys in our effort to show support for George, Cadel, BMC, and all U.S. riders. Here we are waiting for the race about 1.5 km from the start of the second major climb of the day on the Col d'Izoard. What you can't tell readily from this photo is that if we stepped backwards just a few feet behind us, we would have fallen right off the side of this mountain.

As we had a couple of hours to kill before the race would arrive, Chuck and I hiked a few more KMs up the mountain to the area called the desert. Check out this view. Unfortunately, photos still can't do it justice. You can see the winding course lined with campers into the distance.

Here is Andy Schleck, shortly after he launched his stage winning attack. At this point in the race, he still had a long, long way to go, as this was just the beginning of the Izoard climb. He would later have to ascend the Galibier to seal his win.

Venga! Venga! Venga! Here comes part of the chase group - digging deep!!!

American Tom Danielson riding strong and securing his top 10 GC placing.

The grupetto being led by Cancellera, as it went by just inches from where we were standing. Personal "that was cool" moment for me. Gilbert is buried in the middle of this pack and as he rode by, I shouted "Allez Pheeleeepe!" He then turned to his left and flashed me a quick smile.

Here is Chuck along the wall doing his best Graham Watson impersonation. You can also see Cavendish in his green jersey struggling to make the time cut.

Chuck gets his half second of fame, as he makes the TV footage. Here he is photographing Basso, Contador, and Voeckler chasing.

Bis später.

L'enfer du Nord - 2011

We left Paris at dawn and arrived at Compiegne a couple of hours before the start of the Queen of the Classics. After a quick breakfast a local cafe, we found prime front row real estate near where the riders would arrive and sign-in. The beauty of Roubaix is in its simplicity. Compared to the massive crowds and elaborate sign-in ceremony in Brugge for the start of Flanders, the start of Roubaix is very small and intimate.

Big George giving his favorite race another go. He continues to be a fan favorite in this cobbled-classics region of Europe. Shortly after this sign-in, Chuck held up his authentic Hincapiewear US Championship BMC jersey (ie, a replica of the one George had worn the prior year). George kindly came over and signed the jersey.

Pippo! Although his results have been lacking of late, this boy still knows how to ride a bike with style.

Tyler Farrar rolls up. He lived up to his good-guy reputation, as we gave him a "Good luck Tyler" shout in our best American accent. He responded with a friendly head-nod and big smile.

Johan Van Summeren preparing for the ride of his life! In just a few hours, he will ascend from being known as just a good classics rider to a bonafide cycling hardman!

I really enjoy watching the pre-race social dynamics of the riders. It seemed as though the younger riders, especially the French riders, were the most exuberant. But then why shouldn't they be...these guys are finally starting the race they likely have been dreaming of since they were small children. The veterans, on the other hand, generally displayed a more reserved, and at times, more nervous demeanor. I assume this is because they know all too well why it this race is called The Hell of the North.

Cav...telling it like it is (or at least his uncensored version of how he sees things).

Hofste starts his last race of the year just a couple of weeks after being hospitalized from a serious concussion stemming from a hard crash in Dwars. Despite major headaches and pains that would plague him for the remainder of 2011, he still lined up at Roubaix.

Yes, we were that close and could reach out and touch them if we wanted. No telephoto used by Chuck here. That's the beauty of this sport...the riders are accessible, probably too accessible for their own good at times. Standing right next to me on my left, there was a man with an official looking autograph book with gloss photos and names of all of the riders. After the riders would sign-in on the stage and come back down, this man would politely call out to many of them in their native language and request an autogragh. Pretty much everyone of them, as the rider in this pic is doing, came over and willingly signed for him. Very, very cool!

Defending champ Sparticus (aka "The Tank", as the Flemmish like to call him) appears to be in a reflective moment.

Tom Boonen shares a laugh with his former Quickstep teammate Wouter Weylandt. When I took this picture, I was just thrilled to catch Boonen in this light moment. However, this picture took on a whole new meaning just a few week's later after Weylandt's tragic crash in the Giro. R.I.P. Wouter!

Lining up just minutes before the start of the year's hardest one-day race. Few have any real chance to contend...most just hope to finish.

T minus Trois and counting. At this time, the race announcer proclaims that there are three minutes until the start. Here you see Kevin van Impe right in front of us lowering his head for a silent prayer of some sort. Unlike most other races I have seen, there were many riders praying and genuflecting before the start of this one. Cycling soldiers preparing for battle.

Here we are after leaving Compiegne en route to the Arenberg and drafting off a race van.

We have arrived at the Arenberg Forest.

While waiting for the race, these guys provided us with some unsolicited entertainment. They lived up to the "drunken Belgium Kermisse fan" stereotype.

The battle is heating up. World champ Thor a couple of lengths ahead of Cancellera.

Van Summeren being protected near the front on the Arenberg.

We, along with every other fan on the Arenberg, get on the main expressway in an attempt to watch the race somewhere near the finish. Here we are "racing the race" to Secteur 3. Chuck snaps this pic of the race off to our right from the passenger seat of our car.

Chuck contemplating a career change as a wrench for Highroad. Luckily, he didn't quit his day job given the eventual fate of this super team.

No real commentary needed here. Van Summeren makes a hard right off of sector 3. The biggest victory of life is just minutes away.

Note: I have to give props to Chuck for this pic and many of the following photos, as he was positioned just inches away from the riders on the their right side. I on the otherhand am on their left. I encourage you to double-click these photos for even better detail.

Cancellera lays down the hammer in a futile single-handed effort to chase down JvS.

Thor, the reluctant team player, doing his job keeping Sparticus in check and allowing Van Summeren to push on free and clear.

Ballan, sporting the World's stripes and demonstrating why he is currently Italy's premier classics rider.

Greipel chasing hard!

Dirt, pain, blood, road rash! Young boys/fans in the background cheering from the tops of their parent's shoulders. This scene is what a typical Roubaix is all about!!

Big George narrowly avoids a crash in the turn. See next pic.

Guy from Radioshack had to slow due to tire going flat. Check out George checking him out.

Jens Keukeliere of Cofidis gets a flat changed right in front of me. There is actually a lot more going on here than meets the eye in this photo. First of all, this wheel change took way too long. Secondly, the lady with the white hair and white top had had way too much French wine and was what I will politely say quite inebriated. Prior to the arrival of the racers, she had been going up to everyone (Chuck and me included) and just chatting and rambling about who knows what (it was all French to me). We jokingly attributed this slow wheel change to her distracting the mechanics with her non-stop talking.

For this shot and most of the ones that follow, the riders' expressions say it all.



Remember how clean van Impe and his bike were at the start back in Compiegne? Well, here he is a few hours later.

As you can see, this is no ordinary Sunday race.



The eyes say it all!

Even though the Tete de la course is many minutes ahead, there is still a lot of hard racing for those still in the game. If you have any doubts, just look here.

Jeff, Chuck, and I peek over this guy's shoulder to watch the finish of the race. Chapeau Johan, Vaughters, and Garmin - well played!

Bis später!